Machhiwalon ka Bazar survives on a road where the fish market is gone

Parvez sells fish each morning from a cart in the middle of Chitli Qabar Chowk, a short walk from the stretch still called Machhiwalon ka Bazar. The road is officially Jama Masjid Road now, but the older name has proved harder to dislodge.

For years, fish stalls crowded the road between Daryaganj and Jama Masjid. Fish scales scattered across the surface made walking difficult, and scooters could skid there. The fish business was moved to Ghazipur, on Delhi’s eastern edge, a few decades ago. The market itself disappeared, though its name survives along part of the road and in local directions.

The surrounding area is also known as Urdu Bazar, a reminder of the Urdu bookshops that once stood there. Old names continue to shape nearby landmarks: Jagat Cinema, now closed and located in the former fish-market area, is called “Macchliwallon ka Talkies”, while Kasturba Hospital is known as “Macchliwallon ka Aspatal”.

Gali Khan Khana still has a few fish stalls and shops selling fishing nets. Nets are also sold on the main road beneath a peepal tree, beside a bone setter’s stall. The market once hosted a weekly kabadi bazar for used clothes, sandals, suitcases, transistors, handbags and shoes; Delhi’s Sunday Book Bazar, now at Mahila Haat, began here.

The trade’s older history was tied to the Yamuna, which flowed close to the Red Fort during the Mughal period. In monsoon floods, crocodiles carried into the city were brought to Machhiwalon ka Bazar, where their oil, skin and teeth were sold. Today, the fish may be mostly gone, but the name still directs people through Old Delhi.